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When you turn the key on, you allow power to run through the switch and into a red w/ black stripe wire that runs back through the same 4-pin connector and then over to the regular fuse box under the right side cover. From this 4-pin connector power flows to your keyed ignition. Power continues past the fuse to a small 2-pin connector and then through a 4-pin connector that is located under your seat. That red wire passes power through a 30A fuse which is located under your left side cover. Power starts out at the battery where you have a big red wire connected. This simplified schematic will help illustrate what I’m explaining: It sometimes helps to think of electrical circuits in terms of water flowing through pipes, going from one point to another. To better understand the root of the problem let me explain how power gets from your battery to the headlight. The only certain thing is that if you’re running a higher wattage headlight bulb then eventually it WILL happen.
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This failure could take place during a quick trip to the grocery store, or thousands of miles from home on an extended trip. This melting process could take months or even years, but the problem is that you’ll never know a part has failed until it’s too late. What I’m saying is that without proper precautions for the electrical system on the bike, which is not designed to handle additional current draw from higher wattage bulbs, you will begin to melt parts until they fail. Now I’m not saying that if you swap to a higher wattage headlight bulb your bike will explode, or that tomorrow you’ll go out to hop on the bike and the motor will fall out of the frame. This could not be further from the truth! Many people figure that if the H4 plug fits a 60/55W bulb base then they can just replace the bulb with a higher wattage bulb that still has this H4 base and all will be fine. What some people don’t understand is that the electrical system that supplies power to this bulb is designed around that 60/55W bulb and the current it draws. What this means is that your regular headlight is 55 watts and your high beams are 60 watts – simple enough to understand. The VTX (and most bikes) comes from the factory with a 60/55W bulb. You may be reading this wondering “Why can’t I run a higher wattage headlight bulb?” You might be reading this wondering “How can I run a higher wattage headlight bulb?” Or you may be reading this thinking “I am running a higher wattage headlight bulb… What’s the problem?” Well, if any of these situations fit you, then this article is worth reading so that you don’t end up stranded on the side of the road.